When you fall in love, you recognize it right away. All your receptors suddenly go out of scale, all your senses lose any reference point. And then, above all, your sensitivity reaches levels never seen before, you perceive everything with extreme clarity and lucidity. And everything becomes, everything becomes large and never seen. And does’nt mean if they are places, seas, colors, hairs.
If there’s one thing I can not forget about Sardinia and, no matter how hard I try, I can not close it in a bag, is the light. That special light of early morning, maybe when the clouds thin out and the sun comes back again, which makes everything extremely precise, distinct, sharp. That moment when someone above us press hard on the contrast button and moves us like puppets under a beautiful world. Simple, beautiful. And later, in the evening, everything collapses together, fades and softness still gets the upper hand on the blades and on the contours.
And all of these feelings, this extreme clarity, this icy cleaning and this final merger into the softness, can be found, sometimes, in a glass of wine. In a glass of Vermentino, especially in his denomination of “Gallura Superiore DOCG”. Sciala, by Cantine Surrau, comes from a selection of the best grapes from the vineyards of the most suitable Surrau valley, and after a brief contact with the skins with the must is fermented in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks, where it evolves for a few months in batonnage, in contact with the lees.
But really, now we don’t care about the batonnage! We care instead about what we founfd in this glass, a real wodnerful Sardinian stamp, the one thing that makes us fall in love. The good ones call it “typical”, for us is a profound identification, arrival, departure point. The color is typical of Vermentino, pale yellow on average loaded by the partial maturation on the skins, a nice inviting bright tone. But is the nose to be like Sardinian early morning, precise and sharp, clear and “Taliban”, saline of seaweed more than rock , fruit at the right point of crunchiness and maturation, medlar, some dried fruit notes. Puffs as sharp thorns, vertical driven, no overlapping, missiles.
The mouth is rather the Sardinian evening, is a sunset that fades and reassembles, the evolution on the lees makes her and gives softness, essential to add to the tense character of the perfume great pleasure in sip. Acidity never over the top, well merged with a full and satisfying mouth. Big alcoholic impact, evident at the end of the sip, fortunately well supported by the final classic of all Vermentino.