There are times, especially evenings, where I understand the meaning of my love for cooking or food and wine in general. There are times, especially bad ones, in which I feel overwhelmed by the flow of life, from external impositions, from all those contingencies that make me lose control of what I think is most important and rare: my time.
In this unequal struggle in which I try to steal time to time, food is a valuable ally. Food not just as simply eating, not even as a cultural meaning in the sense of the word snob, rather food as a moment of reflection, as a pause, as a spontaneous and informal concentration on flavor, on the story, on the passion of producers and on everything we put in our mouths. so, food as a discovery, and what could be better than the new, the unknown and doubts, to fight time?
If then in front of me there is a glass that, in a particular way, embodies this sense of isolation and abstraction, almost meditation, then everything takes a sense even more accomplished. Mario Soldati wrote that to appreciate the wines of Etna would be better to focus on the red ones, as the maceration on the skins (typical in the red wines) lets flow in the red wines all that flying dust that his majesty “Etna” launches thrugh the air. Thus, a red wine of Etna is always played on the dividing line between the vernacular and the particular taste, between the excessive and surprising.
The Valley Galfina Etna Rosso byi Scilio (vintage 2013, mind you, this is not a minor detail) is able to stay far away from areas of the vernacular and, indeed, to appear almost like a wine that the volcano has only grazed. It’s an organic wine (the wine cellar has been certified in 2012) from nerello mascalese, unexpected since color, a beautiful ruby red. The nose is pleasant, blackberry, rosemary, tomato leaf and a side-aroma of gunpowder, stone powder. Mouth surprisingly, the sip is extremely sleek and developed, but not harsh, characterized by a wooden passage, in some traits, so remarkable. The 2013 vintage, hot, did the rest leading to a very important maturation, and in fact the content glycerine is definitely not shy after tasting. It’s a not disturbing feeling (however, fairly well balanced by a slightly bitter end) on which even the company is working if it is true that from the 2014 harvest they have been abandoned barriques for large French oak barrels.
So, a wine in movement, that we’ve to follow because if it already gives beautiful moments probably, tomorrow, it might give away wonderful ones. Another wonderful hint, by mi friends of Svinando.